If you ever move to California there are two places that you will have to go immediately, if only to avoid the look people give you when you say you haven't been there. The first place is Catalina Island. "You haven't been to Catalina?!? Oh, you HAVE TO go, it's soooo great! There's no cars!" And they giggle, thinking about how quaint that is. So, a couple years ago I finally went and was completely underwhelmed. Maybe I was just faint from the exhaust of the 2-stroke engines and boat diesel clogging the air, but once was enough.
The other place is Napa and Sonoma. Now that I've been there, I can see why people look at you like you just grew a third head if you say you've never been there. It is more beautiful than you imagine, like Fantasy Island for the food-and-wine-inclined. In the words of the immortal Ferris Bueller, "If you have the means, I highly recommend it."
Which leads me right into Day 2 of our NorCal vacation. On Saturday we were eager to get out of foggy Ocean Beach and on to the warm valley of grapes ahead of us. What a difference a bay makes--we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge and went from 65° and thick fog to 95° and blazing sun in less than an hour. Let's review:
Naturally, we took our yacht across the bay and landed in Sausalito where we grabbed a quick coffee and scone for the ride to Napa. (The helicopter dropped us off on land.)
I was most excited about this stop on our trip--Michael Chiarello's Bottega in Yountville, home to some of the best restaurants in the U.S. Notice there's no one out in the courtyard? That's because it was about 162°. Hear that?
It's the sound of my forehead sizzling.
Inside was cool, quiet and what I'd call "upscale rustic." A large patio outside seemed to be popular, but we were happy to sit inside where we could do our favorite thing--watch what was going on in the kitchen.
A nice couple next to us took our picture and we took theirs. We were almost elbow to elbow with them--the tables are very close together--but it turned out to be fun because we ended up chatting with them on and off through the meal.
We started with the heirloom tomato, burrata and balsamic caviar salad. Those are little jelly beads of balsamic vinegar. Yep, the tomatoes were great, as you'd expect.
Anson had homemade gnocchi with marinara and I had a delicious risotto of the day--sweet corn and wild mushroom with little bits of crispy pork on top. I would have taken more pictures, but the light was not happening.
Now, I'm the first to admit I'm not a food critic, but it all was really good. I was worried I might be expecting too much, but that wasn't the case, it was all great. The little touches made it nice, like the bread that gets set right down on the table (no plate) with a miniature cup of oil, cheese, garlic and red peppers to spread on it. Our server was so nice, and even the iced tea was a step above. He has done a nice job with the place, and seems to have a good sense of what people like in restaurants.
home of my favorite Sauvignon Blanc.
Here's the view from St. Supéry. Nice, huh?
Our next stop was Benessere Vineyards, a little out-of-the-way winery in St. Helena. This is the kind of tasting room I like, almost an afterthought, room for half a dozen people. The sales manager, Chris, poured wine for us and we had a great time talking to him. He was so welcoming and friendly, really passionate about wine and lacking the weariness that the attendants can sometimes have at the big wineries.
We never would have stopped here, but for a little wine we used to serve at Ciao Brasserie called Costa del Sol. It's their off-label and they mostly just sell it to restaurants. We had been rationing the case we had for a couple years and decided to just go ahead and see if they'd sell us one. Well, all we had to do was ask. Chris hooked us up and even took some pictures of us in the barrel room and showed us around. It was so fun!
Our beer-maker neighbor recommended Bear Republic Brewery in Healdsburg, so we made our way to Sonoma County and stopped for some nectar of the gods. The brews were pretty creative too, we tried a cask-conditioned ale I wasn't into, but Anson liked it.
The food was good too, I had an awesome Wild Mushroom Polenta with Bolognese Sauce and Anson loved his Black-and-Bleu Burger.
We used a vineyard in Cloverdale for a nice portrait of this handsome guy.
Sunday morning we wanted to get one more stop in before we started our long drive home. Sunset Magazine had a great article a couple months ago on the champagneries (is that a word?) in the area, so we followed the Russian River over to Korbel. What a different landscape! We drove curving forest roads under canopies of redwoods and pine trees, far from the sunny, rolling hills of vineyards we explored the day before.
Educational note: Established in 1882, Korbel is one of the oldest wineries to make champagne in the country and they are able to call it "champagne" because they were established before the French designated a Champagne AOC.
We were there first thing in the morning, and as I framed my photo of the Brandy Tower, these two deer jumped out of the hillside to check us out.
Does it get more picturesque?